Process of making shoes



Jan. 9, 1934. M. o. FROST ,PRocEss OF MAKING SHOES Filed March 22. 1929 Patented Jan. 9, 1934 NiTE STATES PAT Application March 22, 1929. Serial No. 349,104 7 6 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes, and more particularly to the process employed in lasting and attaching the sole to the upper.

If we take as an example, a shoe made in accordance with the McKay process, the procedure is generally as follows: after assembling and pulling over the upper is lasted over the insole and secured by tacks which are clinched on the iron bottom of the last employed for that purpose. After' the last has been withdrawn, the outsole is secured to the lasted upper and insole by through and through stitching passing through the outsole, upper margins and insole.

This process, of course, leaves the lasting tacks within the shoe, which is undesirable. Accordingly various processes have been proposed which had for their objects the production of a McKay sewed shoe which will be free of tacks. These processes have, however, in the main been not commercially feasible, for various reasons, including cost, unreliability and requirement that the usual procedure employed in the making of shoes be deviated from to such an extent as to require new machines and differently experienced operators.

One of the objects of this invention, therefore, is to provide a process of the character referred to in which a tackless shoe will be secured, while the usual machines now employed may be used and without interfering with the general procedure as now practiced in the manufacture of such shoes.

Further objects will appear from the detail description taken in connection with the accompanying drawing in which:

Figs. 1 to 7 inclusive are perspective views showing successive steps in the manufacture of a shoe in accordance with this invention.

Referring, to the accompanying drawing, in accordance with this invention, the upper 1 and the insole 2 are assembled on a last 3 as usual in the manufacture of McKay shoes, and are pulled over in the usual manner as shown in Fig. 1. Cement is then applied to the margins of the upper (and also to the lining and doubler if provided) and the upper is lasted over the insole. In practice the cement is first applied to the upper margins along the forepart and shank; these are then lasted over the insole in the usual manner as by a side laster. The result of this procedure is shown in Fig. 2, but it will be noted that the tacks 4 are left projecting as in the lasting of welt shoes, and this is, of course, accomplished by employing a welt side laster for that purpose. The

ends of the shoe are now lasted, which can be accomplished in a bed lasting machine. In this machine the heel can be lasted as usual, the tacks 5 being driven through the insole and clinched on the iron heel plate provided on the last bottom. In the case of the toe, however, cement is applied to the upper (and also to the lining,. doubler and toe cap if employed) and the lasting of the toe proceeded with, the tacks 6 being also here left projecting. The termination of this procedure is shown in Fig. 3.

The shoe is now placed in a drier, principally to dry out the moisture in the shoe and'set the box toe, as the cement employed is preferably of the quick-drying type. It will, of course, be understood that cement is used in the descriptive sense to include glue as well as cement. It will, moreover, be understood that where the lasting instrumentalities have not accomplished the purpose, the edge of the upper will have been pressed down so as to lie on and adhere to the insole. Moreover, the cement may also be applied to the insole. After the cement has set and also preferably after the shoe has conformed itself to the last, the tacks 4 and 6 are drawn around the forepart, leaving the tacks, however, in place along the shank. The shoe is now taken to a pounding machine and the upper pounded down around the toe; the termination of this procedure is shown in Figure 4. The tacks are now drawn along the shank, the bottom sanded, the shank 7 and the filler 8 applied. The termination of this procedure is shown in Figure 5.

An outsole 9 is now placed on the lasted and cemented upper. This outsole can be temporarily secured in any suitable manner, it being important that this outsole be secured to the margin of the upper while the subsequent through and through stitching takes place. with one embodiment of this invention and where the outsole is provided with a channel lip 10, as shown in Figure 6, tacks 11 are driven through the outsole preferably also through the margin of the upper and into the insole, but preferably not into the last. These tacks, it will be noted, are arranged inside of the line of stitching 12 subsequently applied and to secure that result the shoulder formed by turning up the channel lip 10 may be used as a ledge or guide to place these tacks 11.

The last 3 can now be withdrawn since the insole, upper and outsole are secured together against displacement, not only by the cement securing the margin of the upper in lasted position, but also by the tacks 11 which pass In accordance It will, therefore, be seen that the invention.

accomplishes its objects, and a process is provided whereby the shoe as produced will not only be free of tacks, but the procedure is such that the usual machinery as well as the general processes employed in shoe manufacture may be used. By securing the sole temporarily to the margin of the upper, the stitching of the sole to the upper can be accomplished while the parts arejso secured against displacement. It will be understood, of course, that while this temporary securing is by means of tacks, other means may be employed such as cement, to secure this result, and still attain some of the objects of this invention.- By keeping the tacks in place along the shank while the upper is pounded on the insole around the toe possible displacement of the upper and breaking of the cement seam is avoided.

While this inventionis particularly adapted 30,, for the manufacture of shoes made in accordance with the McKay method in employing an insole, it will be understood that it is applicable as to many of its features to the manufacture of shoes made in accordance with'other processes,

....as well as to the manufacture of boots and other footwear. It is to be understood, of course, that in the specification and claims the term upper is employed to generally include the lining, and doubler and in cases toe stiffener, etc. It is furthermore to be understood that certain features, "operations and sub-combinations are of utility and may be employed without reference to other features, operations and sub-combinations; that is contemplated by and is within the scope of the appended claims. It is furthermore to be understood that various changes may be made in details, without departing from the spirit of this invention. It is, therefore, to be understood that this invention is not to be limited to the specific details shown and/or described.

' In view of the above, it will be seen that the several objects of the invention are achieved and other advantageous results attained.

As many changes could be made in carrying out the above constructions without departing from the scope of the invention, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description or shown in the accompanying drawing shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

I claim:

1. In the art of making shoes, the process comprising, lasting the upper and cementing and tacking the same, pulling tacks along a part of the lasted upper pounding the same while the adjacent part of the lasted upper is held tacked and subsequently removing the tacks from the part which was held tacked during the pounding operation.

2. In the art of making shoes, the process comprising, lasting the upper and cementing and tacking the same, pulling tacks around and pounding the lasted upper around the toe while the adjacent part of the lasted upper is held tacked, and subsequently removing the tacks from the part which was held tacked during the pounding operation.

3. In the art of making shoes, the process comprising, lasting the upper and cementing and tacking the same, pulling tacks along the forepart; and pounding the lasted upper around the toe while the lasted upper along the shank is held tacked.

4. In the art of making shoes, the process IL."

comprising, lasting the upper and cementing and" tacking the same, pulling tacks along a part of the lasted upper and pounding the same while the adjacent part of the lasted upper isheld tacked, pulling the remaining tacks, placing a II sole on and temporarily securing the same to the margin of the upper, and stitching the sole to the upper while so secured.

5. In the art of making shoes, the process comprising, lasting and cementing the upper 1.1

along the sides, lasting and cementing the upper around the toe, placing a sole on and temporarily securing the same to the margin of the upper, and stitching the sole to the upper while so secured.

6. In the art of making shoes, the process comprising, lasting and cementing the upper along the sides, lasting and cementing the upper around the toe, pounding the upper around the toe, placing a sole on and temporarily securing the same to the margin of the upper, and stitching the sole to the upper while so secured.

. MYRON O. FROST. 

